After splitting the body from the chassis, the first order of business was getting the notebook out.
Logging the spacers on each and every body attachment point. Although they will likely be getting change as part of the bodywork overhaul, it’s a useful reference.
I say spacers, that’s glorifying the situation a touch, big old washers would be more accurate, anything more than a 3 stack got a tack weld applied to hold them together.
There was some sizeable differences from side to side down the backbone. These 2 plates are on opposite sides of the transmission tunnel, where the roll cage mounts.
Also the slight issue of some butchery on said plates!
Video showing the variety of spacers and the state they were in…
First time the shell had been off the chassis in probably near 40 years. Bit of grot and grime build up!
One interesting thing that was immediately noticeable was the massive improvement on the door fit with the body released from the chassis. Suggests the spacers were all to pot and the shell was being bent or twisted. Don’t have shots from the same angle unfortunately but think this shows just how big a difference it made.
Removed the lower trim panels on the dash, only 3 out of 4 or 5 holes had screws, all 3 completely different of course!
Anyways, enough talk, more action. Time to get her back on the ramp and crack on with the body split checklist.
New toys from Amazon in the form of imperial impact sockets, 9mm hex for the rollcage (still haven’t used this right enough) and AF brake fitting spanner.
Now the jacking points on the Elan are at the ends of the sills. I have no reason to doubt their integrity on this car but they are a bit known for the metal lattice inside corroding. So, since I can make it work getting the pads on the backbone of the chassis, I decided that was preferable.
Exhaust clamp was the lowest part under the car, not guilty on this destruction, was like that when I got there!
Think I have identified why the fitting on the fuel tank was seeping…
Rear carb needs the studs removed as they foul on the footwell structure when lifting the body. The checklist said rearmost 2 but I decided to remove all 4 to be safe as the front ones were also going clash, suspect the list was authored for Weber/Dellorto equipped cars which has a different manifold casting on the head.
At the time this picture was taken, some divot had just dropped a nut down an intake runner.
Next up on the check list, getting the cooling system drained and removed to create some easier working conditions in the engine bay.
Radiator brackets may or may not be re-used. The system needs an upgrade to prevent overheating issues, something definitely needs done about the radiator sitting at a jaunty angle. Don’t think you can see it in the pics but I’m also not a fan of the self tapper I found rammed through the bracket almost in to the radiator core, presumably to stop it rattling around!
Not the easiest to drain it has to be said. The drain tap is above the front of the bodyshell, but with a silicon funnel feeding in to a plastic funnel and finally in to a drain bucket, it was emptied. The coolant was surprisingly fresh looking giving it was 20+ years old!
Big difference in working space with the radiator and associated plumbing removed
That being said, pulling the radiator doesnt make the access to the carb nuts any better. The rear one was a delight. Roughly 2 hours of cursing & swearing and half a dozen burst knuckles managed to finally get them off.